Trim removal
Wheels, arch liners, undertrays and underside covers are removed where needed to gain access.
Preparation before underseal
Rust proofing only works properly when the underside has been cleaned, checked and prepared. Coating over loose rust or failed factory underseal traps the problem underneath.
Treatment quality depends on preparation
Applying rustproofing to a poorly prepared surface is pointless. Mud, road salt, silt, tar, failed underseal and loose corrosion all need to be dealt with before the final protection is applied.
Preparation time varies because every vehicle is different. A clean modern vehicle may need limited preparation; a classic, import, off-roader or winter-used vehicle may need far more work.
Pre-treatment preparation process
The aim is simple: expose a sound surface, identify any repairs and dry the underside ready for coating.
Initial jet wash
Heavy mud, dirt and loose debris are removed from the underside and arches.
Steam cleaning
Hot washing helps remove oil, tar, old wax and softened factory underseal.
Chemical clean
Traffic film remover and further washing help remove road salt, tar and oily contamination.
Abrasive preparation
Air needling, wire brushing, grinding, sanding or blasting is used to remove loose corrosion.
Rust conversion
Remaining stained but solid areas can be treated with rust converter before coating.
Rust repairs if needed
Any holes, structural corrosion or heavy pitting must be discussed and repaired before protection.
Seam sealing and primer
Repaired areas and failed seams are protected with appropriate primers and seam sealer.
Blow and dry
Air lines and heat lamps help remove dust and moisture before the underseal treatment begins.